Behind the science – Of Eucerin pH5

That’s why Eucerin has been using its expertise to create highly tolerable and effective products since the 1950s. This pioneering spirit has led the way, first with a pH5 ointment, then with a complete range of body care products in the 1970s. However, developments in research methods led to a real breakthrough when three active ingredients were shown to protect the skin's acid mantle and activate natural enzyme activity from the inside out. 

Dry sensitive skin is an increasingly common condition that affects both men and women. It can occur at any age and on any part of the body. Dry sensitive skin is unpredictable, and can look and feel very uncomfortable, with a range of symptoms that include redness, scaliness and itching. It’s only recently that we’ve started to understand its causes more fully, and to recognise the role skin’s pH plays in skin sensitivity.

Skin’s surface is covered by a protective acid mantle (part of the hydrolipid film) which gives it a mildly acidic pH. This pH plays an important role in skin condition and is key to skin’s protective barrier. It neutralises alkaline-based aggressors (such as harsh surfactants), supports the essential process of shedding dead skin cells (known as desquamation), inhibits the growth of bacteria and creates the optimal environment in which skin’s natural flora can thrive.

All of these systems depend on enzyme activity. Any change in pH level reduces this activity and compromises skin’s barrier function. Water loss increases and skin dries out making it more susceptible to external irritants and sensitivity

With this in mind, the Eucerin Research and Development team set out to identify active ingredients that would help restore and support skin’s natural pH.

The most effective ingredient they tested was Citrate Buffer. “Citrate Buffer is a derivative of Citric Acid, and works to counteract any movement towards an alkaline pH,” says Filbry. 

We used Citrate Buffer to power a new pH Balance System which we knew would influence skin’s pH,” is as much about what you leave out as what you put in.

he explains, “but we needed to understand if the pH Balance System would also be beneficial to enzyme activity.” To do this the team had to devise a new test.

Dr Filbry and the team invented the Trypsin Assay test method which has since been internationally recognised and won multiple awards.

The Trypsin Assay test measures the activity of the Tryptic enzyme – the key enzyme in the stratum corneum (the outermost layers of the skin) – and is used to assess the effect of different products on the enzyme’s activity. It’s an ex vivo test, which means that it is conducted on skin cells that have been cultivated in a lab where the conditions are controlled to be as natural as possible.

According to Dr Filbry, “Our pioneering research methodology demonstrated that the Tryptic enzyme was more active after the application of mild surfactants at acidic pH levels. “ The Eucerin scientists then used the Trypsin Assay method to test the effectiveness of a formula containing the pH Balance System.  “The results were impressive,“ says Filbry. “They proved that the Eucerin pH Balance System creates the optimal environment for the enzyme activity associated with healthy skin.”

The lab then explored additional ingredients, and Dexpanthenol proved to be highly beneficial for dry sensitive skin. Dexpanthenol, derived from Pantothenic Acid – also known as Vitamin B5 – is a powerful humectant. “It binds water in to the skin,” explains Filbry, “giving it the moisture it needs to operate as an effective barrier. It also stimulates skin regeneration. 

We found that the addition of Dexpanthenol to care products helped to protect skin’s natural defenses making it more resilient and less sensitive to environmental triggers,” says Filbry.

Disturbed skin barrier function

A more resilient skin barrier
1. Dexpanthenol
2. pH Balance System

The Eucerin pH5 range – which includes body lotions, creams and cleansers - has been specially formulated to restores skin’s natural defenses and make it more resilient and less sensitive.

As Dr Filbry explains, “The unique pH Balance System with Citrate Buffer helps to restore skin’s optimum pH. In the cleansers, it combines with extra mild surfactants to prevent skin from drying out even with frequent washing”

He and his team are equally proud of the range of care products, where the pH Balance System combines with Dexpanthenol to restore skin’s natural pH, make it more resilient and less sensitive, and boost moisture levels.

Importantly, as Dr Filbry adds, “all the products in the range are clinically and dermatologically proven to be ideal for daily use on dry sensitive and allergy-prone skin.”

“Of course we’re proud that the Eucerin test method was internationally recognised,” he concludes, “But what’s more important is that our pH5 products strengthen skin’s natural defenses and help people to soothe and care for their dry sensitive skin.”